Holiday! Yummy!

Devon 2011: On the road with Imogen...

She reckons she's got the route sussed, we're not so sure....
9 hrs & 5 service stations to Devon, and that was just the bit from Birmingham!....poor Imogen not happy in car seat in 27 degrees!

Candes St Martin ... pretty pretty!

Chateau Nitray

Chateau Nitray courtyard

There's Chateaux and there's Chateaux ...

Days 14-17

(... and the best ones are the ones that do the wine...)

Sunday travelling up to Loire. Still very hot. Sometimes the van feels like it's sticking to the road, you can almost feel the hot tar vulcanising with the tyres under all that weight. I get a bit obsessed with tyre pressures and decide that's part of the problem we're only getting like 14 mpg, forgetting that its got more to do with me trying to get 70 mph out of a 4 ton van with a 6 litre V8. Doh. We stop at a couple of those free automatic pointe de service on the autoroute peage, but of course theres no way there gonna handle 80 psi, they just kind of do this depressed hissing thing ... So I have to carry on with this under-performance burden nagging away...

Still, by the time we get to Camping Le Saule at Cheverney I've forgotten all that nonsense. Great family site, all mod cons, dead clean, if a bit expensive. Get the barbie on, crack some beers and we're relaxed again, under the trees ...

Monday bike to Chaverney (well, its Cheverney, right, but Chav-erney seems more appropriate for the Euro tourist trash here). Pasta at Pinnochios opposite the chateau. Good grub, poor service (bouffe!). In the Chateau a huge baying pen of French hounds. Dont walk on the grass signs. First encounter with irritating Spanish. 16th century leather wallpaper. Certat majoribus astralis?? Do the tourist trundle & shunt round the great salons of the house. Still fun to bike in the flat coutryside down poplar lined avenues.

Tuesday seems to be the day of the Ch (once I'd got the 80 psi gonflage sorted) ... Like the knights that say ni. Chambord, Chaumont, Champignons, Chenonceaux, Cher...

Great Royal Chambord definitely worth a look. We didn't go in, but it seems to me the most impressive thing is its size and stature as a total statement anyway. Sure there was plenty inside, but I already had the message - big, royal, powerful, opulent, complex, grand.
After that we went down the road along fantastic raised levees giving the only relief to the landscape, to the B of the day, Blois. B, for but though, as well, cos we struggled to find proper parking or access, so balied from Blois after a quick lunch in the bus car park by the river (not even a great view of the Loire at that stage).

Then on to Chaumont over the Loire, a quick appreciative, but weary glance over to the Chateau perched delicately above the river. Now head through more open and less touristy country to the River Cher and Chenonceaux, passing the caves de shrooms on the way. Champignons? Mushroomed in the dark. Best place for 'em at 6 euros a visit!

We seem to like that, less touristy. We arrive at the truly beautiful Chateau Chenonceau as numbers are dwindling, and its threatening thunder, so it works out well for us. More history, prettier gardens, and incredible artwok than you can shake a stick at. Home of Catherine de Medici, the queen ruled France from here for a while. Amazing original 16th century tiling to
the floor and .... on the wall.

We end up at a small field campsite (Civray de Touraine), mostly run for canoeist and fishing folk, basic but fine for us ... The last Ch of the day on the River Cher.

Wednesday. Caves ... Head off for Athee looking for Chateau Nitray. A couple of wrong turns through flat Loire farmland winds us up at a poo dumping point de service in a tiny village, and me with unpleasant stuff on me kegs. Not really the mellow day of caves and tasting ... Still, we find Chateau Nitray, drive through a 17th century coaching arch into a beautiful, lazy courtyard, and all that shit (sic) disappears. Greeted by a huge, sloppy french hound, it's a while before Monsieur proprietaire pops up, completing a sale with someone else. This is The Count. He owns the place and makes the wine. What a nice guy. What a bloody great spot. Watch an enchanting movie about barrel making, and wander of our own accord around the site. End up with a couple of cases of very palatable Chateau Nitray (Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon blanc)... To cap it all, the place is a France Passion site, and had we been in the market for a kip, parfait.

Roll out back to the road with wide grins towards Vouvray and Montencourt. The Chateau Montencourt is kind of grand, accomplished but a bit up itself. We only slightly enjoy the comprehensive but shabby museum. The wine is good but the sales girl aloof. Despite ourselves we grab a few cases of Vouvray, but only for the wine, not the label!!

Now its along the winding levees of the Loire south bank, we pass through pretty Brehemont, & find the Chateau Usse just about closed, but local cave still open for some friendly degustation, choisir les vins numero trois! We learn about the quality of the 2005 wines, the chenin & sauvignon blancs, & the sec/demi sec Vouvrays. Not to mention the vital importance of breathing
a wine. Somehow, can't imagine how, we end up walking out the door with 3 cases, plus a petite gratuitous Touraine from our new friend.

Finally, a long hot French day washes us up at Azay-le-Rideau (jewel of the Loire...). Clonky home cooked chicken & chips dinner at a little auberge, with harassed Henri, and the crazy 10 minute scheduled American family. Eerie, fantastical, moving songes et lumiere at Chateau Azay in the misty rain caps a romantic evening. Scary red monks & the realm of the wasp king....

Loire & Chateaux